1). A 1/20 sloping beach was constructed from concrete. This slope angle is consistent with previous studies where mild slopes have varied from 1/15 (Li and Raichlen, 2003), to 1/20 (Synolakis, 1987) to 1/24 (Klettner, 2010), to 1/35 (Grilli et al., 1994). The water height was measured using 12 resistance probes

distributed along the length of the flume and a probe monitor (manufactured BIBF 1120 cell line in-house by HR Wallingford). The resistance probes were calibrated prior to each series of experiments due to their sensitivity to the conductivity of water. The sampling frequency was 50 Hz (so a temporal resolution of ±0.02 s), and the accuracy of wave elevation measurements was ±0.005 m. Runup was measured directly using a horizontal tape measure along the flume wall and recording the maximum penetration point of the first swash (accuracy ±0.01 m), along the centre line of the channel i.e., mid-distance between the Selleckchem Ceritinib flume walls, in order to avoid edge effects. For the runup tests presented in this paper, the surface elevation nearest the wave generator was used to determine the wave parameters (see Fig. 1), and the ratios of a/ha/h ranged between 0.02 and 0.18, for both elevated and N-waves. The advantage of the adopted pneumatic generator is that long and leading

depressed waves could be generated and were stable over the flume length. The wavelengths reproduced were much longer than the ones previously studied. The disadvantage was that some wave reflection occurred at the beach when elevated and leading elevated N-waves were created, due to the relative length of the waves. The measurement of runup is important for comparing the characteristics Acetophenone of the present waves with existing studies. Runup was estimated from the measured runup length RlRl and converted to a vertical distance using: equation(7) R=Rltanβ.R=Rltanβ.Wave period and wavelength were retrieved from the wave elevation time series. In many cases the second half of the positive part of the wave does not strictly correspond to the direct signal, due to the reflected waves travelling back from the beach. The period T   and wavelength L   are calculated

using the first half of the positive wave, assuming symmetry (a schematic graph within Fig. 1 illustrates the method used to estimate the wave period): equation(8) T=2(tηmax-t0),T=2tηmax-t0, equation(9) L=cpexpT.L=cpexpT.In (8), tηmaxtηmax is the time of occurrence of the wave peak, and t0t0 corresponds to the time when the value of the wave elevation is 1% of the maximum wave height (tηmax>t0tηmax>t0 and we set T1=tηmax-t0T1=tηmax-t0) prior to tηmaxtηmax. In (9), cpexpcpexp is the wave speed, determined from the experiments, by calculating the temporal correlation between adjacent wave probes. For N-waves, the trough does not trigger any reflections from the slope, so the parameters corresponding to the negative part of the wave are calculated on the full negative profile.